Dining Divas: Pia’s in St. Charles

BY LISA KAMPETER

Character. That’s what I have to say about Pio’s in St. Charles. This restaurant has character. You won’t find fancy furniture, extravagant artwork, or upscale dining. Today’s classy modernism is checked at the door. Pio’s family Italian restaurant welcomes the older generation that lived its history and invites the young who want to rediscover the past.

Pio’s has character, and the Dining Divas will take character over class any day. Although the burgundy wallpaper, flowered borders, cramped tables (possibly originals from over 50 years ago), and tight powder room need massive renovations, what Pio’s lacks aesthetically, it makes up with charm.

Like the delightful gentlemen who happily shuffled out of their booth, reminiscing about “back in the day” when they used to dine there all the time. Or the family of eight, with parents and teens and toddlers all enjoying what’s been called “the best pizza around”. Our table was placed closely to our neighboring booths, yet we didn’t feel intrusive or annoying. It actually felt a bit cozy, especially when our neighbors leaned over to see what we ordered. In the bar, the stools were filled with both young and old sharing stories and taking pleasure in some good Italian food. It was a happy place. A friendly place.

From our server to the person bussing our table, everyone we encountered seemed happy to be there. Something was in the air. Whatever it was, the Dining Divas were ready to pounce on it. As typical with most Italian restaurants of this kind (like Ponticello’s and Rizzo’s), a standard dinner salad accompanies most meals. Get the dressing on the side. As the Newlywed Diva said, her salad was more like “ranch soup.”

The soup of the day was cream of chicken. What it lacked in flavor, it made up in chicken. The small cup was chock full of chunks of chicken, perfect for a rainy day or as mom’s special remedy for anything that ails you.

Remember fried chicken like Grandma used to make? Crunchy and juicy. Pio’s and Grandma have something in common. Great fried chicken. One Diva ordered it with creamed corn, another rarity. Along with the chicken livers that were on the menu, this so fondly reminded her of home-cooked meals as a child back in Teutopolis, IL.

Pio’s serves the classic chicken parmesan, a favorite of the staff. A chicken breast lightly breaded and fried and placed on a bed of spaghetti covered with plenty of sauce and fresh parmesan. Even the Cooking-Challenged Diva could make this “no frills” dinner.

The ravioli in meat sauce is another simple dish with which you can’t go wrong. Just sprinkle on some fresh parmesan and a little salt and pepper to your liking. I’d recommend asking for a box early, and you’ll have plenty for another meal. Although the Picky Diva enjoyed her pasta, she pointed out that the Italian Diva’s sauce would upstage Pio’s, if only she’d cook for them again.

Those who have been to Pio’s before would tell you that you have to get the pizza. Not this time for us as we’d all had pizza that week already. But we’d be back.

Perhaps it was because it was a Thursday and close to the end of a work week. Perhaps it was because baseball season had started, and the Cardinals took the Rockies series. Perhaps it was because the weather was changing and signs of spring were evident. People were happy to be at Pio’s, and perhaps it’s because Pio’s reminds us of good times, of our pasts where families still dined together.

People shared stories of yesteryear and weren’t considered annoying. Neighbors knew neighbors, looked out for each other, and weren’t considered nosey. Pio’s has character and reminds us of the good ol’ days…something fancy artwork, expensive murals, and exquisite cuisine can never guarantee.

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