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White sand beaches and blue water makes the beach scenes at Saugatuck and southwest Michigan look almost like those in southern California.
STORY & PHOTOS BY BOB LINDSEY

As the Star of Saugatuck came to the mouth of Kalamazoo River and approached Lake Michigan at dusk, the pilot advised us that we were in for a special treat. “The clouds are lifting and you’ll get to see a beautiful sunset.” She was so right.

As the bright yellow sun faded into the red western sky over Lake Michigan, the evening capped off our second and last day in Saugatuck/Douglas, Michigan, located about 400 north of St. Louis. This had been a busy, yet relaxing two days in this Michigan beach town where the western winds in the summer warm the lake water making it pleasant for a dip.

You can keep busy in Saugatuck exploring the art galleries and shops, dining on the riverfront patios, hiking up Mt. Baldhead, riding the sand dunes, visiting the nearby winery and orchards for fresh summer fruit. Or you can do little or nothing, lying or the beach or sitting on a porch swing with a good book at one of the many bed and breakfast inns that make this the B&B capital of the Midwest.

———-B & B Capital of Midwest
Upon our arrival at the Park House Inn, built in 1857 and the oldest home in Saugatuck, we met Carol Moakley of south St. Louis. She and her husband Bryan had stayed at the Park House Inn back in June during the town’s annual film festival. After talking with Carol we knew we were staying at one of the best of the many B&Bs in this town. Carol said she and her friends “were in the area” and wanted to stop by to say hello and express their gratitude to the innkeepers.

Owners Toni Trudell and Melissa Raywood love to tell the history of the inn and tales of each of the individual rooms. This lovely residence offers suites and rooms, private baths, Jacuzzis in some rooms, and a dog friendly cottage. Traveling with another couple, we enjoyed the large kitchen area for evening card and board games. The screened patio was a great place for the homemade breakfasts. The surrounding gardens for late afternoon refreshments. For information visit: parkhouseinn.com.

Saugatuck/Douglas boosts over 50 inns and cottages, plus several motels and vacation rental properties.

After a breakfast of blueberry deep-dish French toast, fresh fruit and smoked ham, we set out to discover Saugutuck-Douglas, the two southwestern Michigan coastal towns separated by the Kalamazoo River. We learned that the best views of the area are atop Mt. Baldhead. To get there you must take the Saugatuck Chain Ferry, the only remaining chain ferry in North America. The two-member crew takes turns hand-cranking the chain track across the river where 282 steps await us for a trek up Mt. Baldhead.

After stopping for a few deep breaths, we made it to the summit in less than a half-hour. And was it ever worth the hike. Views from the platform atop Mt. Baldhead offer breathtaking pictures of the area. There’s an optional walk down a sand dune path for better views of Lake Michigan, but you’ll have to walk back up the dunes for your return trek.

———-Michigan’s Art Coast

The remainder of the morning we visited the quaint shops and galleries, many filled with artworks ranging from ultra modern to more traditional. After all, they call this area Michigan’s art coast.

The girls especially loved the variety of shops and galleries ranging from wood carvers to pottery, to sculptures. While a bit pricey, you can envision a homeowner finding the perfect piece for a room. Douglas seems even more artsy and the Blue Star Antique Pavilion there is filled with special collectibles and more than 170 antique dealers.

Stop by the Saugatuck Drug Store and check out of the old-time soda fountain established in 1913. There are also two fudge shops, but there are no chain restaurants in town, keeping the town historically authentic.

We didn’t have time to visit everything, but were told history buffs would love touring the S.S. Keewalin. This was a 350-foot passenger steamship that once floated the Great Lakes and is now a floating maritime museum moored in Douglas.

We headed out of town for a short drive to Fennville to visit a local Michigan winery, the Fenn Valley vineyards, and stop for lunch at the famous Crane’s Orchards known for blueberries, raspberries and cherries. We were too filled for one of Crane’s famed pies, so we bought a blueberry pie to have later that night after dinner.

———-Sand Dunes and Beaches

Lake Michigan sunsets are a popular scene whether from a local beach or from the paddlewheeler, the Star of Saugatuck.

When all the laid-pack style of Saugatuck and the surrounding area makes you long for a little adventure, the Saugatuck Dune Rides is just the ticket. This reminded me of a Disney type ride, as the 18-passenger schooner rode over hill and dale through the sand dunes, like a trackless roller coaster complete with a wisecracking driver.

You make a stop at the top of a sand dune for more great views and the history of the dunes. The trees you see are actually only the tops of trees as many more branches and the trunks are buried hundreds of feet below the sand. For information: www.saugatuckduneride.com.

Also buried under the sand is the original settlement that had hoped to rival Chicago and Detroit, but vanished by the mid 1800s. For many reasons, the town called Singapore was never escavated and sits below the sand dunes awaiting future archeological endeavors.

After the thrilling sand dune rides, you’ll be ready for the beach. Oval Beach, voted one of the top 25 beaches in the world by Conde Nast Traveler, awaits with fine sand, gentle waves and warm summer waters when westerly winds make the water temperatures comfortable. The scene could be compared to a California beach with warm sunshine, even with temperatures in the mid 70s. Unlike most western Lake Michigan beaches, you seem swarms of people actually in the water. There are miles of public beaches in southeast Michigan.

———-Dining Out
Our first evening in Saugatuck we dined at the Coral Gables, one of three waterfront restaurants in town specializing in fish from the Great Lakes. The second night, we opted for the Elbo Room, another riverfront restaurant, this one located right behind the Park House Inn. A travel writer who lives in the area recommended it to us and it turned out to be gem. On this week night, the restaurant offered a special of eight entrees for $8 each, an incredible dining deal when you take into account the quality of the food served and variety of dinner selections. Owners Steve and Betty Barendse also have a regular menu of salads, sandwiches, pizza and quesadillas.

We didn’t get a chance to eat at Everyday People’s Café in Douglas as it was closed the day we planned to go, but we heard some good things about the café from locals. Our travel writer friend from this area also recommended the Blue Moon Bar & Grille, a bit more chic than other places in Douglas. There’s also the Saugatuck Brewing Co. Maybe the next time.

After a memorable dinner at the Elbo Room, the Star of Saugatuck paddle wheeler offered a sunset cruise down the Kalamazoo River to Lake Michigan. The waters were a bit too choppy for actually entering the lake, but the sunset was a camera buffs delight and a perfect way to conclude a two-day visit. For information: saugatuckboatcruises.com.

Saugatuck hosts several festivals and events during the year. Each June is the Waterfront Film Festival, one of the nation’s fastest growing film festivals attracting more films and celebrities each year. The Mason Street Warehouse brings big-city caliber theater to the area. The Saugatuck Center for the Arts, located in a former pie factory, is the center for performing arts and the June Film Festival and the November Children’s Film Festival. It offers a year-round schedule of art events, concerts and theatrical productions.

This entire area on the southwest coast of Michigan has even more to offer if you have time. Holland, the Dutch community famous for its May Tulip Festival and its windmills, is only eight miles from Saugatuck. The quaint towns of South Haven and St. Joseph are south toward the Indiana border. Grand Rapids is 30 miles east. Chicago is only a 2-hour drive and you can even get to Milwaukee by taking the two and a-half hour Lake Express ferry ride from Muskegon, about a half-hour’s drive north of Saugatuck. The drive from St. Louis is 5-6 hours.

Although we visited in mid-summer, Saugatuck-Douglas markets their town as year-round destinations with fall and Christmas events and winter activities such as cross-country skiing. For more information on Saugatuck-Douglas visit www.SaugatuckDouglas.com.

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