Pensacola is a city of surprises. Until our most recent trip, I thought of Pensacola as a beautiful beach town with long stretches of white sugary sand beaches, beach homes and condos and hotels, but I didn’t realize that it had 460 years of history, a preserved historic village, and a thriving downtown area.

    I also didn’t know that Pensacola is actually the oldest city in the United States. You probably thought St. Augustine held that distinction, but Pensacola was established in 1559 by Spanish explorer Tristan de Luna six years before St. Augustine was founded. Confusion results because a hurricane disrupted Pensacola’s development and, therefore, St. Augustine gets credit for being the nation’s oldest “continually occupied” city.

Pensacola is a City of Five Flags–Spanish, French, British, Confederate, and American–and each of those governments have had a lasting impression on the culture, architecture, and history of the downtown area. From historic to chic and trendy, downtown is 44 walkable blocks of shops, restaurants, museums, theaters, art galleries, preserved history, and a Saturday farmer’s market.

Palafox is its main street downtown and two of its principle sections are Historic Pensacola Village and Plaza Ferdinand. Old Christ Church, the oldest church in Florida, is a stately anchor for the historic village and serves the Pensacola community as an Episcopal Church, public library, and museum.

   A one-day or seven-day ticket for admission to the Pensacola Museum of Art, the Pensacola Museum of History, the Pensacola Children’s Museum, and Historic Pensacola Village can be purchased for $10 or less and includes guided tours of the Old Christ Church and the Lear/Rocheblave House, and a 1920s tour. As you’re walking through the downtown district, you can stop in any one of these museums at your leisure.

  The Pensacola Museum of History  (formerly The T. T. Wentworth, Jr. Florida State Museum) captures the history of Pensacola from its 16th- century beginnings to the

mid-20th century and beyond. It reveres Martin “Trader Jon” Weissman and his eclectic collection of Navy memorabilia.

Trader Jon got his name and his extensive collection by trading drinks for photographs and artifacts in his downtown bar that he operated for nearly 50 years. That bar was the favorite watering hole of naval aviators who were training in Pensacola and has now been recreated in the museum.

   Just about any type of food can also be found downtown. In the course of a few days, we managed to have breakfast, lunch, happy hour, dinner, and an ice cream cone at several downtown establishments.

    My favorite was Jackson’s Steakhouse at 400 S. Palafox St., established in 1999 at the beginning of the downtown restoration. The ambience there brought back memories of fine dining in a lovely room with attentive servers, white tablecloths, china, and dim lighting, not to mention outstanding menu choices.

Since it is a steakhouse, I had to order a steak with lump crab topping and Jackson’s Caesar Salad, but my husband (the seafood lover) couldn’t resist the red snapper. Both choices were indescribably delicious. The next time I visit Pensacola I’ll plan on taking one of the scheduled cooking classes with Chef Irv Miller.

For me, happy hour is usually a glass of wine and maybe an appetizer, but The Well at 42 E. Garden St. offers a mellow Floridian lounge experience with 10 signature cocktails and new flavors of craft beers. The Spicy Thyme Cocktail I enjoyed there was unforgettable. I only wish I had the recipe. Owner DC Reeves, who just happens to be running for mayor of Pensacola, is looking forward to soon opening a raw oyster bar at the end of the bar very soon.

   Saturday mornings in downtown Pensacola are a good time to shop for fresh produce and arts and crafts at the Palafox Market in Martin Luther King Jr. Plaza.

It’s open from 9 a.m. until 2 p.m. Then, stroll over to

    The Wine Bar at 16 Palafox for a relaxing brunch and a

glass of wine. The atmosphere is laid-back and family-

friendly. You’ll then be refreshed and ready to visit a few more boutiques and galleries and another museum.

If you’d rather eat a good breakfast before you start your day, try Bodacious Brew at 407 S. Palafox St. You can have your coffee any way you like it with pastries or a full breakfast. An added bonus to dining here are the great views of the bay and downtown from the second level.

   After you’ve tried some of the excellent downtown restaurants, drive uptown for some southern charm at George Bistro + Bar, where you can dine indoors or out seven days a week. The service is outstanding and the George Fries are to die for. A large plate of hand-cut fries are topped with adouille sausage, mushroom, cheeses, and spices. It could easily be a meal, but share them so you’ll have room for another one of George’s fresh salads or entrees.

   Another local favorite restaurant outside of downtown is Agapi Garden & Bistro, which features Greek food by award-winning Executive Chef Gus Silivos and Chef de Cuisine Justin Robinson. A lot of love and local ingredients go into every dish. Even if you think you can’t eat another bite after you finish your meal, I highly recommend ordering Chocuterie, a board of house-made chocolate confections and fresh berries that can be shared or taken home. It’s sinful.

   I’d be remiss if I didn’t at least mention the Grand Marlin on Pensacola Beach for an outstanding selection of fresh seafood and daily specials to be savored while enjoying gorgeous views of the beach and the bay. We went on a Sunday when they have brunch options on the menu.

There are many more pleasures and treasures to be discovered in Pensacola. These are just some suggestions to get you started on your own adventures in the oldest U.S. city and only a day drive from St. Louis.

Captions:

Carriage rides are offered through the Pensacola historic area. In the background is the Pensacola Museum of Histgory , an elaborate 1907 yellow-brick Renaissance Revival building that originally was City Hall. 120 Church Street.

Historic Pensacola Village, in a corner of downtown, consists of 27 19th Century buildings in the Pensacola National Register Historic District; 11 are open to the public as museums and exhibits. There’s a two-hour walking tour led by period-costumed guides, www.historicpensacola.org.

Palafox Historic District is a cultural and entertainment center in Old Pensacola. Along with restaurants and shops, there’s the opulent, renovated Spanish Renaissance-style Saenger Theater, a 1925 movie palace that hosts performances by the Pensacola Opera and the Pensacola Symphony Orchestra.

visit: www.downtownpensacola.com.

OLD CHRIST CHURCH in the city’s historic area is the oldest church in the state of Florida.