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STORY & PHOTO BY BOB LINDSEY
Summer and winter present two different worlds in mountain country such as the northwest section of Wyoming, home of the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone Park and Jackson Hole. I always imagined visiting there the first time in the summer.

But when the opportunity came to make a winter visit to the area, we couldn’t pass it up as we always wanted to visit Yellowstone. We knew Yellowstone was the most visited National Park in the country and most of that heavy traffic is in the summer. Winter is far less crowded and offered a different perspective

A recent 3-day winter trip to northwest Wyoming proved to be as spectacular as I imagined it would be in the summer. But what made it special was our stay at Togwotee Mountain Lodge, voted the top lodge and area for snowmobiling in the West.

Most arriving passengers landing at the Jackson Hole Airport head west for the short drive to Jackson for their stay at the area ski resorts and hotels. James from Togwotee Mountain Lodge picked us up and we headed east going from an elevation of 6,000 feet to 8,600 feet in about 45 minutes.

Arriving at night, the drive up didn’t offer any views of the scenery we saw the next morning when we headed to Yellowstone for a full-day tour on a snowcoach. The Grand Tetons appear like glaciers as you drive down the valley past moose and elk on the way to the national park.

We spent a peaceful night in one of the 50-plus cabins that surround Togwotee lodge that looks like an alpine village. Snow packed up to 3 feet high sits on the cabin roofs surrounded by snow-covered pines and serene mountains and valleys.

After a hearty breakfast, which along with dinner is included in the package deals, we walked a few yards to the rental shop while listening to the huskies howling at the nearby dog sledding site. We were wishing we had the time to experience a dog-sled ride, which is also a big part of Togwotee’s winter attractions.

At the rental shop, our guide Jeff got us all the proper snowmobiling attire including jacket, pants, helmet and boots for our ride. The sleds have hand warmers and some even have seat warmers as morning temperatures can be near zero.

We were plenty warm for our snowmobiling trek through the backcountry that surrounds the lodge. Having snowmobiled only once a few years back in central Colorado, we heeded advice and stayed on the trails. Jeff told us that about 80 percent of the riders (sled-heads) are experienced and ride off-trail through the 2.5 million acres in the surrounding national forest that’s actually larger than Yellowstone. Next time, we vowed to ride off trail, which they say feels more like a ski jet on water.

As we rode the trails, occasionally getting up to 30-32 miles-per-hour on the straightaway, the off-trail riders would pass us by and head down the hills and valleys. Many are repeat riders to Togwotee.

Going to the restaurant and the Red Fox Tavern on the property, it’s apparent that snowmobiling here is a male dominant sport and most are men in their 30s, 40s, and 50s. There were a few couples , but we didn’t see any girl groups like you’d find at the ski resorts. But the guys were friendly and offered tips to us novice riders. Many brought their own sleds and parked them outside the cabins.

Togwotee can arrange other activities including the dog sled rides snowmobile tours through Yellowstone or even Snowcat skiing for the experienced and brave skier. We obviously didn’t try this, which is basically skiing ungroomed slops without going up in a ski lift. You go up in a Snowcat vehicle and then ski down The lodge also offers day and evening trips down to the town of Jackson, if at least six people sign up.

We spent one afternoon and early evening in the town, visiting the shops and having lunch at one of the many restaurants .That evening, Pedigree was sponsoring the first of a weeklong event of dog sled races. Hot drinks, music and samples were offered at the Town Square. It was a festive night in Jackson, even with temperatures in the teens.

No visit to Jackson is complete without a stop at the Million-Dollar Cowboy Bar. I expected a rustic, smoky bar, but we were pleasantly surprised when we walked in and sign greeted us: Enjoy a Smoke-Free Environment. This is a huge bar with a steakhouse downstairs. People sit on saddles and the glossy timber interior makes it look like a million bucks. The hundreds of silver dollars lamented on the bar surface add to the value. We had to head back to the lodge before the music started at 9 p.m., but were assured it was classy country-western music here.

Togwotee offers package programs that include a breakfast buffet, free Happy Hour drinks and snacks, and an off-the menus dinner that includes steaks, ribs, chicken, salmon and salads and dessert. One night Pat had a tender filet and I had slow-cooked melt-in-your mouth pot roast. Rental discounts and a snowmobile guide are also included.
For more information call 1-800-543-2847or go to the user-friendly web site: www.togwoteelodge.com

Togwotee staff say that summer at the lodge is a totally different experience, obviously without sleds. It’s more family oriented with horseback trail rides, summer visits to Yellowstone and hiking. The fully equipped cabins have kitchens, fireplaces and barbecue pits .Maybe some day we can visit again and see Yellowstone in the summer, but for now the winter memories here will linger.

March Madness: Jackson Hole Snowmobile Climb

Every year almost 10,000 spectators flock to Jackson, Wyo. for the World Championship Snowmobile Hill Climb. This annual event, which will take place Thursday – Sunday, March 26-29. challenges snowmobilers to race up 1,500 vertical feet on the steepest
slope Snow King Mountain has to offer.

Not every snowmobiler makes it to the top and many tumble back down, but half the fun is cheering them on anyway!

Togwotee Mountain Lodge’s offers “March Madness Week” special that week, which includes a minimum stay of seven nights from March 20 through April 1. Package rates start at $189/night for single occupancy and $258 for double, and include trans-portation to/from Jackson Hole Airport, social hour, dinner, breakfast and guide service.

For more information, visit www.togwoteelodge.com or call (866) 292-6720.

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